Information on Japanese Maple

The Japanese Maple

Common Name:   Japanese Maple

Scientific Name:  Acer Palmatum    

Height: 5 - 8 m

Span: 5 - 7 m

Growth Rate: Slow

Sun Tolerance: Partial Sun

Acer Palmatum is well known for their attractive maple leaves in the world. The tree is not a native of North America but stills flourish in United State’s different climates. Acer Palmatum is extensively used in Bonsai. Acer Palmatum are so much versatile that they can fit into any park, garden and roadside. They are very slow growers and flourish in moist soil. The leaves of the tree are star-shaped. The color of the leaves is bright yellow, orange and red. The famous and striking Canadian Maple Leaf gold and silver bullions feature Acer Palmatum’s leaf.  

 Full Grown Japanese Maple 

 Bark of Japanese Maple 

   Japanese Maple during Winter Season

Beautiful leaves of Japanese Maple 

Leaves of Japanese Maple

Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree

Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree

Different Types of Leaves of Japanese Maple

 Fruits of Japanese Maple

Japanese Maple Leaves

Video on  Japanese Maple :

How do you plant a Japanese Maple?- For most palmate leaved varieties select a site with full sun to light shade, more shading for those in warmer zones (8-9) full sun for those in cooler zones.
- For most dissected, linearilobum, and dwarf varieties select a site that is in partial shade (afternoon shade at a minimum especially in hotter climates).
- Soil should be well drained - Choose a location that is sheltered from drying winter winds - Japanese Maples are shallow rooted so try to avoid planting near established shallow rooted trees (beech, large maples, etc.)use mulch to prevent weeds and do not cultivate the surrounding soil.
- In humid climates and climates with very damp spring weather it is important to make sure of adequate air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
Planting:
Dig a hole 2-3 times as wide as the root ball or container that the maple is growing in (wider is better), dig the hole no deeper than the root ball or container. In heavy, poor draining soils the hole should be just deep enough that the top of the root ball is 1-2" above the surrounding grade.
Mix 50% (by volume) organic matter into the native soil, suitable organic matter include compost, leaf mold, soil conditioners made from pine bark, or peat moss. Do not add fertilizer at this time (although a transplant solution with Vitamin B1 may be beneficial)
Place the tree in the hole and backfill halfway, thoroughly soak the root ball and backfilled soil then continue to backfill. Once completely backfilled water again.
Continue watering deeply at least once a week unless there has been adequate (1-2") rain until the ground freezes, the following year gradually wean the tree off of supplemental watering except for during the hottest part of summer or extended droughts.
Form a small berm just outside the drip line of the tree to help the tree get enough water for the first two years as it gets established.
Mulch with 2-3" of hardwood, pine bark, or pine needles. Keep the mulch off of the trunk.
After the second year, eliminate the watering berm.